Once considered traditional attire, Ankara—Nigeria’s most iconic fabric—has evolved into a global fashion phenomenon, now gracing red carpets, proms, and cultural events from Lagos to London and Atlanta.
With its vibrant colours, bold prints, and versatile designs, the fabric has won international appeal, embraced by Africans and non-Africans alike. Designers say its growing influence reflects both cultural pride and a global appetite for originality.
Speaking with THISDAY, Tobiloba Adegoke, Chief Executive Officer of OJ Inspired, said Ankara’s uniqueness lies in its ability to combine glamour with cultural storytelling.
“Ankara is more than fabric; it’s history and identity,” he said. “When someone in Miami or Toronto wears it to prom, they are carrying a piece of Nigeria with them.”
According to him, social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok have fuelled demand, with exports rising from tens to hundreds of outfits each season. He noted that diaspora youths are among the biggest buyers, often requesting African-inspired prom and ball gowns.
David Omobolanle, CEO of DaStylz House of Fashion, described Ankara’s rise as a “fashion revolution,” noting that Nigerian fabrics are now competing with, and often outshining, Western couture.
“In the last 22 months, we’ve shipped over 400 Ankara outfits abroad, mostly prom dresses,” he revealed. “Its strength is adaptability—you can make a ball gown, cocktail dress, or even a suit, and it stands out.”
Both designers agree that Ankara’s global appeal lies in its versatility and cultural depth, making it suitable for luxury events, red carpets, and weddings.
However, they also cited challenges such as high tariffs, rising fabric costs, and shipping delays. “Sometimes I’m awake at 3 a.m. tracking deliveries to make sure a dress arrives in California before prom night,” Omobolanle said.
Despite the hurdles, optimism remains high. “Ankara has gone from local to global, and it’s unstoppable now,” Adegoke said, predicting that Nigerian fabrics will soon appear on major stages such as Hollywood red carpets and the Met Gala.
“Ankara is no longer just a guest at the party,” Omobolanle added. “It’s becoming the life of the party.”
